Monday, August 26, 2013

Warhammer 40K: Tyranid Termagants Part 1

(Trouble with blogging is that consistency is a requirement. I am actually someone who is lazy in record keeping and prefers to just go with the flow in my projects especially when the key reader is myself. Anyway, here is something that I have prepared for a very some time but delayed in posting it for lack of the proper flow.)

With plans to pimp my Space Hulk card game and the fabulous expansions that comes with it, I got myself a copy of the basic Termagants as a test subject for my painting experiments.

Starting off, I found that not all Termagants are a perfect fit. In fact, the mold is constructed that each halves are to be fit on a 1 to 1 basis. And here I was expecting for possible swap. Probably which is why 2 pieces ended up with glaring gaps when joining each other. This gives me a chance to test out the Liquid Green Stuff which I recently bought. And interestingly, my pot had actually dried up even before opening it!

Thanks to my lazy bones, I tried adding water in an attempt to activate the green stuff (forget the liquid part). The stuff does get dissolved (with plenty of water) and it is then ready to use again. I started with a small amount and found that it does not flow into the recess easily. The best method to use it at this stage, was to use it as a putty replacement (not that I have used putty before). Somehow it works and the mini is ready for priming. Make sure your brush is loaded with water if you are using Dried Green Stuff!
Dried Green Stuff doing it's work
I primed 3 of the termagants black (since the other two were undergoing repair works as seen above, they were primed white as a test)

The first termagant was a to be a purple/blue scheme based on the original genestealers from Space Hulk. Base layer of Macragge Blue followed by Genestealer Purple on some parts of the carapace based on painting technique (http://thetyranidhive.proboards.com/thread/38555). It is a very interesting technique which is not easy to pull on a smaller unit like the termagants, but possible.

 

Somehow, after painting this, I realised I screwed the blue/purple scheme up. Time to take a step back and see what needs to be done.

In the mean time, I had a little accident with my 2 repaired termagants where the spray from the Bosny White spray turns out to be a little too thick for the model that the details of the teeth disappeared. I attempted to use nail polish remover (acetone) to remove whatever excess build up from the spray.
 

So comes the big question: How to fix? The first answer was obvious. Hive Fleet Kraken!
 


Body plate is painted with Mephiston Red while the main body is done with Ushbati Bone. Both is then washed with Agrax Earthshade. I actually liked the tone for this model despite the poor priming. In fact, I find the poor priming adds some improvement in the texture of the model.
 


The second piece was made to emulate Hive Fleet Leviathan's purple/white combo. The result, as seen above. Plates painted with Genestealer Purple/Macragge Blue while the whites are Ceramite White (until time of writing, I still have no luck getting White Scar). The shading of the plates is done by layering with Macragge Blue then a wet layer of Genestealer Purple coating the edges and dragged to the top., in the same manner as the first termagant above.

At the end of the day, 2 units complete, 1 unit prototyping partially done and 2 more to go.

Nest Step: 
- 2 remaining Termagants

Wednesday, August 07, 2013

Warhammer 40K Paint Set Part 2

Got myself this box when I picked up Jokaero Orange in my last run. Certainly a good box to get if you want to fiddle around with painting techniques. I do not really have any techniques to test in mind when I got this except to test out the effectiveness of the recently purchased Bosny White paint which I intend to use as a primer for my Robotech Tactics. The spray does give the units a slight shine after the paint job, for some reason. However, it seems that the paint may be a little too thick. Some minor details seems missing if compared to the older models.

The other method I tested was painting yellow by layering Lamenters Yellow over white surface. This certainly gives an interesting result as seen in Blue team with the grey base below. I ended up using this method, followed by a Nuln Oil wash, to paint all the emblems including the purity seals.
Shoulder pads were lined with Abbadon Black
 

Next Step:
- Faction insignia of the new units. Not sure if I can try stenciling it.

Monday, August 05, 2013

Doom Miniatures Part 12: Cyberdemon

Doom 3 Cyberdemon
Even though that the board game is based on Doom 3's version, I was inspired to use the version below.

Doom 2 Cyberdemon
I realised that my models are too uniform in color and I decided to do something different with this guy.

Split apart for an easy time painting
So starting of, I based my units with Mournfang Brown. In case you are wondering, the legs and metal parts were previously painted with Leadbelcher. Probably not a wise move, but useful if you want to clearly differenciate the areas of flesh and metal.
The skin is the washed with Nuln Oil to darken the pits and creases. The skin is then layered with Steel Legion Drab and highlights were done with Ratskin Flesh. The eyes were dotted with Mephiston Red and then the entire metallic parts were glazed according to their faction. Once the paint job is completed, both top and bottom are finally glued together.
It's about damn time!

While not as bright as I wanted, it is not as dark as the miniatures when put next to each other.

Paint Used:
- Mournfang Brown
- Leadbelcher
- Steel Legion Drab
- Ratskin Flesh
- Mephiston Red
- Nuln Oil

Next Step:
- Lacquering